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International Island Peak & Ama Dablam Expedition

Spring/Autumn

Fixed Departure: April 02, 2011 – Oct. 07, 10, 2010

Khumbu Himal

Height: Island Peak 6189m. & Ama Dablam 6812m.
Latitude: 27º 51’ 42”. N
Longitude: 86º 51’ 50”. E
Trip Duration: 35 Days
Normal Ascent Route: Normal route.
Grade: Mountaineering
Caravan Route: Ktm. - Lukla –Namche – Chhukung – Ama Dablam BC

Island Peak Climbing It is named ‘Island Peak’ in 1952 due to its striking resemblance to a Island on a sea of ice, this mountain was renamed ‘Imje Tse’ in the early 80s. Its original name is more often used, however. First climbed by a team preparing for an Everest ascent in 1953, Island Peak has an impressive, highly glaciated West Face which rises from the Lhotse Glacier. In fact, the mountain extends from the South Ridge of Lhotse Shar and is separated only by a small col. Above this gap is the ridge leading to the summit. From base camp, we will ascend gradually a steep grassy slope and rocky steps to high camp. It is necessary to climb a steep, exposed 300' snow and ice ramp to the summit ridge; fixed ropes will be used at this point in an otherwise non-technical snow climb. We will negotiate a final tricky snow pitch before reaching the summit. From here stunning views of the surrounding mountains can be seen from the peak, including Mt. Nuptse, Lhotse, Cho Polu, Makalu, Ama Dablam and Baruntse at the south east.

Mt. Ama Dablam Base Camp Puja Beside this another adventure is Ama Dablam has been considered the prettiest mountain in the world. High on her Southwest face hangs a glacier resembling a 'Dablam' - the sacred ornament box worn by ladies in the Sherpa community. It was this spectacular feature that got her the name "Ama Dablam". She lies alongside Everest in the heart of the Khumbu valley offering a superb diversions close up view of Mt Lhotse, Mt. Makalu, Mt. Cho Oyu and Mt. Everest. Ama Dablam expedition requires steep ice, rock and snow climbing. Normally, three camps are set in Ama Dablam climbing above the base camp (4,570m), however, only two camps are used to spend the nights. The normal route for climbing is South-West Ridge. The ascent from Base Camp to camp 1^st is considered one the difficult days of the expedition.

Experience Required: All climbers need to have good skills on rock and ice climbing and technically competent. On most parts of the routes there will be fixed rope, however, the climbers should posses skills of climbing through steep rock and hard compact ice. We follow the standard South West ridge route (normal route) to the top, as it is consider the safe route, free from the objective danger such as avalanche and so on. The route we follow begins at Lukla (2850m) and the initial days of the trek pass through the legendary Sherpa country up the spectacular high valley of the Khumbu region. Most of the route on the actual climbing is fixed with no icefall or glacier to negotiate, and most of it is concentrated on the crest of a ridge.

We have designed the itineraries to climb Island Peak 6,189 before go to Ama Dablam Expedition. It would be a good training and acclimatization to make your success to climb Mt. Ama Dablam.

If you have your own private group or team, please e-mail us to know the price and details of expedition.
If you are alone and looking for a group to join then visit our fix-departure expedition information.

Expedition Itinerary:

Hotel/ Lodges/ Camping
30 Days Trek/Climbing
Food: Included except main meals in Kathmandu
Accommodation: 5 Nights Kathmandu and 29 Nights Tea-house Lodges/Camping
Season: Spring, Autumn & Winter

Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu airport, meet our staff then transfers to Hotel.

Day 02: Kathmandu free.

Day 03: Official works for expedition and briefing by officer of Ministry of Tourism.

Day 04: Kathmandu – Lukla 2860m by flight and trek to Phakding 2622m. or Manjo.

Day 05: Phakding/Manjo – Namche Bazaar 3440m.

Day 06: Namche Bazaar Acclimatization.

Day 07: Namche –Tengboche 3867m.

Day 08: Tengboche – Dingboche 4343m.

Day 09: Dingboche – Island Peak Base camp 5087m.

Day 10: Island Peak high Camp 5087m.

Day 11: Island peak 6189m. Summit & back to Chhukung.

Day 12: Chhukung trek to Ama Dablam Base 4600m.

Day 13-28: Climbing period for Ama Dablam 6812m.

Day 29: Reserve day.

Day 30: Trek back to Tengboche.

Day 31: Tengboche – Manjo.

Day 32: Manjo – Lukla then transfer to teahouse Lodge.

Day 33: Lukla – Kathmandu by flight then transfers to Hotel.

Day 34: Kathmandu free.

Day 35: Last minute, transfer to airport for onward journey.

Expedition Cost:

Service up to Base Camp on group joining basis: USD 3,400 Per Person.

We will provide you the expedition cost as per your size of group or, as per your requirement for the expedition service. We request you to e-mail us or, use "Book Expedition" form for send us your message.
Above given cost does not include the climbing Sherpa’s food & fuel, tents, climbing gears and summit bonus above advance base camp.
Hiring a high altitude Sherpa does cost USD 2800. This cost includes equipment allowances, daily wages, food and fuel up to base camp, insurance, flight to and from Kathmandu, sleeping tents at BC etc…

Service Includes up to Base Camp

All land transportation: Airport /Hotel/Airport, trekking, expedition pick up & drop.
5 Nights Hotel accommodations in Kathmandu at 3 star Hotel on Bed & Breakfast plan (before and after the expedition).
Schedule flight Kathmandu/Lukla/Kathmandu for member, Liaison officer and Expedition staffs.
Transport of food supply and expedition equipments to Base Camp and back.
Full board in lodges during trekking to base camp and back.
Base Camp single sleeping tent & Mattress for each member, BC staffs and Liaison Officer.
All kitchen tent, store tent, dining tents, toilet tent, table and chairs and cooking utensils for Base Camp.
Food and fuel at Base Camp.
Service of Government Liaison Officer.
Service of cook and kitchen boy at Base Camp.
Equipments allowance, daily wages of cook, kitchen boy and Liaison officer.
Insurance of cook, kitchen boy, Liaison Officer and porters.
Peak Permit fee of Island Peak & Mt. Ama Dablam.
Sagarmatha National Park entrance fee.
2 Expedition duffel bag for each member.
Generator or Solar panel at Base Camp for light and charging.
Sat Phone available at Base Camp, but nominal charge for use.
Emergency medical oxygen at Base Camp.
Visa extension fee.
Agency service charge.

Service does not include

International airfare from / to your country.
Nepal entry visa fee (can be obtained at the airport at upon arrival).
Lunch and dinner during your stay in Kathmandu.
Hotel after 5 night stay in Kathmandu.
Personal climbing gear and equipment above Base Camp.
High Tents above Base Camp.
High altitude food and fuel above Base Camp.
Oxygen & Mask and regulator (will be provided as per request).
Personal insurance such as travel, accident, medical, emergency evacuation and lost luggage.
Applicable permit fees and customs charges, etc. for SAT phone, communication equipment and commercial filming.
International airport departure tax at Kathmandu Airport.
Expenses of personal nature such as drinks, laundry, postage, telephone etc.
Tips and bonuses.
Garbage deposit.

Expedition Cost: Service up to summit: USD 6,665 Per Person.

Expedition service up to Summit:

All land transportation: Airport /Hotel/Airport, trekking, expedition pick up & drop.
5 Nights Hotel accommodations in Kathmandu at 3 star Hotel on Bed & Breakfast plan (before and after the expedition).
Schedule flight Kathmandu/Lukla/Kathmandu for member, Liaison officer and Expedition staffs.
Transport of food supply and expedition equipments to Base Camp and back.
Full board in lodges during trekking to base camp and back.
All kitchen tent, store tent, dining tents, toilet tent, table and chairs and cooking utensils for Base Camp.
Base Camp single sleeping tent & Mattress for each member, BC staffs and Liaison Officer.
Food and fuel at Base Camp.
Service of cook and kitchen boy at Base Camp.
Service of Government Liaison Officer.
Equipments allowance, wages of cook, kitchen boy and Liaison officer.
Insurance of cook, kitchen boy, Liaison Officer and porters.
Peak Permit fee of Island Peak & Mt. Ama Dablam.
Sagarmatha National Park entrance fee.
One high altitude Sherpa per climber to carry all food and gear to higher camps. Also assist the member during climb and summit attempt.
4 oxygen bottles (4 lts) per member with mask and regulator (for use only) " Poisk oxygen system".
Common climbing equipment (necessary rope, ice bars, ice screws, etc).
Common climbing equipment such as ropes, ice screws, ice bar, pitons, etc.
Walkie-talkies for each member base unit at Base Camp.
High altitude food.
High altitude fuel.
High altitude tents.
2 Expedition duffel bag for each member.
Generator or, Solar panel at Base Camp for light and charging.
Sat Phone available at Base Camp, but nominal charge for use.
Emergency medical oxygen at Base Camp.
Visa extension fee.
Agency service charge.

Service does not include

International airfare from / to your country.
Nepal entry visa fee (can be obtained at the airport upon arrival).
Lunch and dinner during your stay in Kathmandu.
Hotel after 5 night stay in Kathmandu.
Personal climbing gear and equipment above Base Camp.
Personal insurance such as travel, accident, medical, emergency evacuation and lost luggage.
Applicable permit fees and customs charges and commercial filming.
Oxygen & Mask and regulator (will be provided as per request).
Expenses of personal nature such as drinks, laundry, postage, telephone etc.
Tips and bonuses.
Garbage deposit fee.