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Expedition   • Dhaulagiri Expedition

Mt. Dhaulagiri (8,167m.) Expedition

Autumn/Spring
Entry: Beni Bazaar /Exit: Jomsom
Fixed Departure: Sept. 05, 2008 – April 05, 2009

Dhaulagiri Expedition A beautiful mountain Dhaulagiri is one of the most popular over 8000 meter peaks for climbing in Nepal and its offers a wonderful trek of Dhaulagiri circuit in Annapurna region. The Dhaulagiri Himal lies south of the Tibet and Nepal border culminating high point at its eastern end is Dhaulagiri 1st . This is a seventh highest mountain in the world. Dhaulagiri towers in solitary splendor. This magnificent peak rises as a giant shoulder of shining ice and snow. It gets its name from the Sanskrit word "Dhavala" which means 'white' and 'giri' which means mountain. It was first climbed by K. Diemberger, P. Diener, M. Dorji, E. Forrer, A. Schelbert & N. Dorji in 1960. Normally, four camps will be fixed for Dhaulagiri climbing. Advance base camp will be set up at 5,300 meter which is used for depositing the stuff and not for camping due to avalanche danger cases. If we could not approach the summit from Camp IV due to bad weather or other reasons, we will have to fix bivouac at 7,900 meter and next day try to push to the summit.

This mountain was first sighted by the British surveyors in India in the early 1800s but reminded virtually unknown until a Swiss aerial survey in 1949. This White Mountain was first climbed in 1960 by the Swiss following the Northeast ridge. Dhaulagiri 1st is buttressed by five ridges and even up until the early 1980's only the Northeast ridge had been successfully climbed. Dhaulagiri is considered the most interesting peak among the eight thou sanders. In this moment there are more than six different routes established with variations, and the possibility of more.

Technical Requirement:- This mountain is being one of the world’s 14 above 8000der high mountains, demands the best quality of technical equipments and highly motivated technically sound climbers team. It has typical weather conditions which is very difficult to predict. The wind velocity is tremendous in this area, almost from afternoon to the dawn it is windy continuously .There are high passes to cross like French pass ht, 5360m. and Dhampus pass 5258m to reach  Base Camp. The Base Camp is located at the height of 4740m. on Chhonbardan glacier below rocky knob. Please write us for excellent trip with us to make sure for your expedition success.

  • Latitude: 28º 41’ 46”.
  • Longitude: 83º 29’ 43”.
  • First time scaled by: Mr. Ernst Forrer on May 13, 1960. SWITZERLAND
  • Normal Ascent Route: North East Ridge

Expedition Itinerary: A

Hotel/ Lodges/ Camping
40 Days Trek/Climbing
Grade: Mountaineering
Food: Included except main meals in Kathmandu & Pokhara
Accommodation: 5 Nights Kathmandu, 39 Nights Teahouse Lodge/Camping
Season: Spring & Autumn

Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu airport, meet our staff then transfers to Hotel.
Day 02: Kathmandu free.
Day 03: Official works for expedition and briefing by officer of Ministry of Tourism.
Day 04: Drive by Bus 830m. to Beni then Overnight.
Day 05: Beni – Tatopani 1189m.
Day 06: Tatopani – Ghasa 2012m.
Day 07: Ghasa – Marpha 2667m.
Day 08: Marpha – Yak Kharka 3680m.
Day 09: Yak Kharka – Dhaulagiri Base Camp 4700m.
Day 10-39: Climbing Period of Dhaulagiri 8167m.
Day 40: Clean the BC and preparation.
Day 41: Dhaulagiri Base Camp – Yak Kharka.
Day 42: Yak Kharka – Jomsom 2750m. and overnight.
Day 43: Fly Jomsom to Pokhara & Kathmandu then transfer to Hotel.
Day 44: Free in Kathmandu.
Day 45: Last minute, transfers to airport for your onward journey.

Expedition Itinerary: B

Hotel/ Lodges/ Camping
35 Days Trek/Climbing
Grade: Mountaineering
Food: Included except main meals in Kathmandu & Pokhara
Accommodation: 5 Nights Kathmandu, 34 Nights Teahouse Lodge/Camping
Season: Winter, Spring & Autumn

Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu airport, meet our staff then transfers to Hotel.
Day 02: Kathmandu free.
Day 03: Official works for expedition and briefing by officer of Ministry of Tourism.
Day 04: Kathmandu – Beni Bazaar 830m.  by Bus then transfer to Teahouse Lodge.
Day 05: Beni – Babi Chaur
Day 06: Babichaur – Dharapani.
Day 07: Dharapani – Muri.
Day 08: Muri – Boghara.
Day 09: Boghara – Dovang.
Day 10: Dovang – Pine Forest.
Day 11: Pine Forest – Italian Base Camp.
Day 12: Italian BC – Dhaulagiri Base Camp.
Day 13 – 33:  Climbing period of Dhaulagiri 8167m.
Day 34: Dhaulagiri Base Camp – Tukuche Glacier.
Day 35: Tukuche Glacier – Yak Kharka 3,680m..
Day 36: Yak Kharka – Marpha Village.
Day 37: Marpha – Jomsom Bazaar and transfer to Teahouse Lodge.
Day 38: Jomsom – Pokhara – Kathmandu by flight and transfer to Hotel.
Day 39: Kathmandu Free.
Day 40: Last minute, transfers to airport for your onward journey.

Expedition Itinerary: C

Hotel/ Lodges/ Camping
42 Days Trek/Climbing
Grade: Mountaineering
Food: Included except main meals in Kathmandu & Pokhara
Accommodation: 6 Nights Kathmandu, 1 Night Pokhara and 41 Nights Teahouse Lodge/Camping
Season: Spring & Autumn

Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu airport, meet our staff then transfers to Hotel.
Day 02: Kathmandu free.
Day 03: Official works for expedition and briefing by officer of Ministry of Tourism.
Day 04: Kathmandu – Beni Bazaar 830m. by Bus then transfer to Teahouse Lodge.
Day 05: Beni Bazaar – Tatopani 1,189m.
Day 06: Tatopani – Ghasa 2,013m.
Day 07: Ghasa – Tukche 2,591m.
Day 08: Tukche – Marpha 2,667m.
Day 09: Marpha – Yak Kharka 3,680m.
Day 10: Yak Kharka – French Col BC 5,360m.
Day 11: French Col Base Camp – Dhaulagiri Base Camp 4,700m.
Day 12 – 41: Climbing Period for Dhaulagiri 8167m.
Day 42: Cleaning BC and preparation.
Day 43: Dhaulagiri Base Camp – Yak Kharka.
Day 44: Yak Kharka – Jomsom and transfer to Teahouse Lodge.
Day 45: Jomsom – Pokhara by flight then transfer to Hotel.
Day 46: Pokhara – Kathmandu by tourist Bus and transfers to Hotel.
Day 47: Kathmandu free.
Day 48: Last minute, transfers to airport for your onward journey.

Expedition Cost in group joining basis;

US $ / Euro          Per Person
Climbing Sherpa: Per Sherpa US $ 2000 (if required by climber)

Service includes:

  • All land transportation: Airport /Hotel/Airport, trekking, expedition pick up & drop.
  • 5 Nights Accommodation in Kathmandu at a tourist class Hotel on bed & breakfast plan as per given itineraries A, B & C.
  • Transport as per itinerary for members, staff and Liaison Officer.
  • Transportation of all food and climbing equipments to base camp and back.
  • Peak permits fee.
  • Full board basis during the trekking.
  • All kitchen equipments; kitchen tent, dining tent, toilet tent, shower tent, chairs and tables at the base camp.
  • Cook and Kitchen boys at the base camp.
  • Base camp tents for members and staff.
  • Per Person 50 KG. Equipment’s luggage / barrels allowed till to Base Camp.
  • Equipment allowance, wages and insurance for base camp staff and Liaison Officer.
  • National Park Conservation Fee.
  • Air Ticket: Jomsom /PKR/KTM with domestic airport tax & cargo fees. Itinerary A & B.
  • Air Ticket: Jomsom /Pokhara with domestic airport tax and cargo fees. Itinerary C.
  • Visa extension.
  • Satellite phone (Pay calls).
  • Emergency Oxygen -Mask and regulator.
  • Helicopter rescue insurance for Nepalese staff.
  • Agency service charges.

Service does not include:

  • Lunch and dinner during your stay in Kathmandu.
  • Airfare from / to your country.
  • Nepal entry visa fee. (Can be obtained at the airport upon arrival).
  • Hotel after 5 nights stay in Kathmandu.
  • Service above Base Camp.
  • Drinks except tea and coffee.
  • Personal climbing gear and equipment above base camp.
  • Walki -Takie permit & Satellite phone permit.
  • Oxygen & Mask -regulator for climbing.
  • Climbing guide (Sherpa).
  • Personal insurance such as travel, accident, medical and emergency evacuation.
  • Nepal custom duty for import of expedition goods arriving to Nepal by air or road.
  • Expenses of personal nature such as drinks, laundry, postage, telephone, etc.
  • International airport departure tax & tourist tax.
  • Tips and climbing bonus.
  • Garbage deposit US $ 3000.00 for a team. After expedition deposit will be refundable.

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